| Balsamic
vinegar has very ancient origins, lost in history. It is conceivable
that the practice of producing this particular vinegar might have
come about by chance, perhaps after having left another typical product,
the so-called Saba or Sapa, which is a sort of simmered must, in some
wooden vessel where a different liquid that vaguely possessed flavours
resembling those of the future Balsamico happened to develop. If we
want to avoid speculation and refer to trustworthy documents we must
go back to the 12th century, when the Benedectine monk Donizone narrates
in his Vita Mathildis, written about the celebrated Countess
Mathilda of Canossa, an episode concerning Emperor Henry III, who
was proceeding to Piacenza. Henry requested Mathildas father,
Marquis Boniface, for a vinegar that he had heard became there most
perfect. In response to such a prestigious authority the marquis sent,
placed on a carriage drawn by oxen, a tiny silver cask that contained
the very best of the precious mixture. That the present must have
been highly appreciated by the emperor is proved by another tribute,
equally worthy of a sovereign, paid by a vassal from Mantua, contemporary
of Boniface, of one hundred bay horses equipped with saddles and bridles,
and of two hundred hunting goshawks. The Canossa Houses rule
was in fact centered over to-days provinces of Modena and Reggio.
The denomination Balsamico, however, does not appear officially in
documents for many years to come, and we have to go alla the way to
1747 to find it in the register of grapes harvesting for the Secret
Ducal Wine-cellar of the Este House. Nevertheless, as early as 1556
in a volume of the court appears a precise list of tipologies in use
for vinegars, from the common to the excellent, reserved to nobility.
In 1863 it was written by Sestini that Since very ancient times
a particular kind of vinegar, whose physical aspect and excellence
of flavour have earned it the denomination of Balsamico, is produced
in the provinces of Modena and Reggio. Among the points of merit,
ageing is the most important; and great care is taken in suitably
certifying it. Balsamic vinegars aged of 50, 70 and 80 years are classified
as good; excellent are those 100, 120 or 150 years old; and when one
owns those of 200 or more years he cannot wish for more! In
the congress held in the same 1863 by the agricultural association
mention is made of a balsamic vinegar of extraordinary quality aged
360 years! showing that the skills of Balsamico production was already
in full bloom at the very beginning of the 16th century. But it is
with Agazzotti, in 1862, that a codification of natural
Balsamico is made, by means of a famous letter which, trimmed of details
relating to minor practices, remains to this day the original manifesto
of Balsamico. |
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